Auteur : Koura-Rosy

How Phoebe Philo changed my vison of fashion?

How Phoebe Philo changed my vison of fashion?

I think that I have truly been passionated by fashion, by watching Phoebe Philo’s collections at Céline. Even tough it sounds like a social cliché, I should admit that I’ve been passionated by fashion since my childhood. To a certain extend,  I don’t think that […]

Chapter Two: London

Chapter Two: London

London, London, London… This is my one and only favorite city in the world. I’ve been in many different cities around the world, but London is still my only crush. Why though? Well, there are so many reasons. I lived in this town during 6 months […]

Fashion & Music – A.W.A.K.E x Dolly Parton

Fashion & Music – A.W.A.K.E x Dolly Parton

Since the beginning, I’m trying really hard to propose a varied content on fashion. For my Mix & Match, with Fashion & Music, I’m trying to work on different ambiance and type of songs. What is really wonderful is the fact that I’m able to do so thanks to the creativity of fashion designers. They propose heterogenous collections and styles that allow me to create those associations. I explored desert blues, french old song and even post-punk and new-wave. Through those Mix & Match I tried to use multidisciplinary perceptive to show that fashion slot into an all universe bigger than trends. This imaginary is not limited to clothes. Indeed, fashion labels are proposing an identity based on various elements which are coming from other fields. Music allowed them to reinforce their image because songs can be more relevant than words. Above all, music combined with images makes an efficient communication cocktail. When I saw the collection of A.W.A.K.E, this association immediately made sense to me. I could choose many other songs but this one was the most representative. Not necessarily because of the lyrics but more because of the ambiance of this song. As this new collection has more than 80 looks, it took quite a long time to create this Mix & Match. Thus, I had the time to dissect the atmosphere and the inspirations of those new creations. Here again I’m playing with temporality. At the same time, it is one of the goals of those works – underline the continuity of fashion through time.I always have been fascinated by the 60’s and the 70’s. The values, the ideology, the songs and the artists from this period were deeply unique and had influenced the upcoming history . A few days ago, I’ve watched an interesting documentary on Arte on this epoch. They went though many aspects of this age, from the civil rights to the women emancipation. One activist from this period was saying that now, the philosophy of this age is less present in our society. We’ve selected the values from this period and many of them have almost disappeared. I quite agreed with this statement. Of course, there are some leftovers of this time, nevertheless, many hopes have been disappointed and the capitalism ideology is still the main philosophy in many cultures. Thus, can we say that the 60’s and the 70’s are a temporal ellipse in history?

This Mix & Match might be a relevant way to propose a modern version of this period. With a point of nostalgia, this association can be at the same time a throwback and a actual version of 60’s and 70’s. You can be in the present and in the past thanks to a simple association based on a fashion collection and a song. Here again, we have a relevant demonstration of the power of those elements in a fashion label strategy.

 

Here I’m mixing:

  • A.W.A.K.E – AW18: No need to present you A..W.A.K.E, I talk about this fashion label a lot. If you need more informations on this brand, here is an article I wrote a few months ago. As you might know, I deeply admire the work of  Natalia Alaverdian. Inspired by the tales of her childhood, she always creates a unique version of contemporary womenswear based on the re-appropriation of classic shapes. Thanks to her misty vision she is behind a lot of splendid collections. For her AW18 collection, she chose to present all the creations through a photoshoot. The fashion label usually presents its collections via the traditional catwalk. This time it is not the case but it doesn’t mean this collection doesn’t deserve any attention. For sure, I would love to see A.W.A.K.E collection on the catwalk, nevertheless, the photoshoot allows to put the creations in a specific atmosphere. Indeed, this time Natalia, creative designer and photographer at the same time, presents her creations in a stunning Russian State Library in Moscow. This collection was inspired by many references including the 70’s and the American West. The British mark is, of course, perceptible in this new collection. While I was watching this new season, I feel that love, passion and duality were highly present, as much in the postures as in the faces expressions. Those elements might represente our time or another epoch such as the 70’s. Those feelings are conversing each other through time. The main advantage of this new collection is the way Natalia redefines the West and the 70’s classic style. Cowboy boots are associated with structured suits and shaped dress and tops. Personally, I would wear those looks on a daily basis. This new collection makes me realize how nice those inspirations can be in the fashion industry. Before that, I have to admit, I was not a huge fan of cowboy boots. However, Natalia allows me to look at those shoes with a new and fresh eye. I’m now able to see the potential of those items in a silhouette. Of course, before her, other designers had introduced their own vision of cowboy boots. Here we have a nice example of the power of fashion designers’ vision. By spreading their conception they can make people change their mind. The art of design…
  • Dolly Parton – Down From Dover: It would be fool to present Dolly. First because she is a leading light in the country music, thus she is really famous, and because it would take too much time to go though her life. The elements selected for this short artist presentation are the most important to me, doesn’t mean it is the reality though 🙂 Dolly Parton is born in 1946 in Tennessee. She grew up in a poor family with twelve children. She starts her career in her early years thanks to her uncle Bill and his radio station. Her first big success was in 1973 after she decided to leave her country town to devote her time to music. Passing through the years like a real monument, she has her own amusement park since 1986. She had written many successful songs such as ‘Jolene’, ‘Early morning breeze ‘ or ‘When possession gets too strong’. I didn’t know this song and the album where it comes from. This album has been released in 1970 and is named ‘The Fairest Of Them All’. This discovery allows me to dive back into vintage country music. I don’t know why I love this type of music. It might be explained by the fact that my parents used to listening at lot country music. Even if this is quite far from their culture in the first place. Thus, this songs from the 70’s is a relevant illustration of this period’s atmosphere. Thanks to this specific melody, we can go back to this time in a flash. The song I chose in this Mix & Match is marked by sadness, love and nostalgia. Indeed, in this music, Dolly is explaining her complicated love story in which happy ending is not a possibility. Her man left her while she was waiting a baby. The latter is dead because of having no father. This tragic and melancholic story is  her way of mourning. Even if, Dolly Parton is at the source of beautiful songs, she is as well a possible Trump’s supporter, which is the worst position to have. I don’t try to find excuses, nevertheless, I think that we need to dissociate her political opinions to her music. She might have critical positions, her art doesn’t spread a message full of hatred and violence. Her lyrics are rarely linked with this sphere of her life which is good for us. But I’ll understand those who don’t want to listen her music because of these political opinions.

 

The Mix: As I said before, by mixing fashion with music I try to explore the different possibilities in term of identity. Fashion labels don’t only express their personality through physical elements, indeed, the imaginary sphere has an important role to play in this tedious process. Music might be a way to reinforce their identity. Here, with this Mix & Match, we have a relevant and efficient proof that music and fashion are stronger together. Of course, the association is working because Natalia has been partly inspired by the American West and the 70’s, Dolly Parton is the illustration of both. However besides this, I think the message from this song matched quite well with the ambiance of this photoshoot. With a refined and structured architecture, Natalia chose a space that defines her creations. She used the models to tell us a story through postures. When I saw it, I instinctively thought of a story about relationships, family, love and duality. Those four features are deeply present as well, in Dolly’s lyrics. Other country music could fit as much as Dolly Parton’s song. But this one especially describes well the ambiance of this Autumn – Winter 18 collection.

 

Chapter One: Scotland

Chapter One: Scotland

I’ve been waiting many months for this road trip with my family. My sister doesn’t live in France, thus it was a perfect occasion to meet abroad. We chose Britain. Why though ? Well, first, in the family, we have a serious penchant for this […]

Fashion & Music – Joseph x Juliette Gréco

Fashion & Music – Joseph x Juliette Gréco

This Mix & Match has a specific goal. Indeed, this time, I wanted to revisit cultural clichés linked with French culture. Of course, I’m a big fan of old french variety songs. However, the main goal of this association is to destructure the symbolic capital owned […]

Fashion & Art – Dilara Findikoglu x Bronzino

Fashion & Art – Dilara Findikoglu x Bronzino

Dilara Findikoglu as an original name which reflected quite well the unique identity of this fashion designer. Born in Istanbul in a family with traditional turkish values, boldness and rebellion have always been a part of her personality. What I really like in Dilara’s collection, is the fact that she creates based on her heterogeneous inspirations. Some of the fashion critic might say that church is at the center of her creations process, however this is true, it can’t sum up relevantly her vision. Renaissance, romanticism and gothic are part of her fashion conception. More she presents new collection, more we are able to see the important extent of her references. While she was studying at Central Saint Martins, she participated – with some of the emerging designers from the same school – to a guerrilla fashion presentation. Since then, she is been associated with this rebellious image. Her latest collections can confirm this specific feature, expressed by various ways. Dilara is working often on mystical elements. Thus this collection (AW18) is a project that aimed to redefine and create a new female utopia that including all type of women. When talking about this collection, she said that “I used to think that my ideal woman is a powerful boss woman. But as I grow up I’ve changed my mind a little bit; I realized that in order to be united, we all need to be accepted. There’s no elimination” . Those new creations came from various artistic or cultural inspirations. However, I decided to focus on 3 looks that might have been inspired by the same esthetic, and then revisited. 

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Angelo di Cosimo known as Bronzino is a renowned Italian painter from the XVIth century. He lived most of his life in Florence. Thus, he has been inspired by artists such as Pontormo. Bronzini is considered as an artist from mannerism movement (1520 – 1580). Living in the Italy during the renaissance, he worked for the Medicis and painted many famous portrait. In this Mix & Match three of his portrait are presented, one of Maria, daughter of Cosimo I de Medici, one of Eléonore de Tolède and then one of Bia de Medici. As many portraits, those ones are supposed to capture the instant. Through the study of portraits, we can meet the beauties criterias of this period. Femininity was a synonym of modesty, ornament and elegance. Bronzino’s portrait reflect the standards from another century. He is a emblematic figure of this century debate on the superiority of  sculpture on painting. As a fierce partisan of painting, he created a lot of work for demonstrating the superiority of painting. Therefore he is the creator of a painting based on two faces represented a man full face and from behind to prove that painting is more capable to show the volume.

 

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What they have in common? Of course, I’m a real fan of portrait. I admire the various technics of this type of painting. To me, portrait is the art of soul. However, besides my taste for it, I think those portrait reflect well the 3 looks selected for this Mix & Match. Here again, Dilara might be inspired by different master-pieces, nevertheless, her dresses and their accessories are highly influenced by Renaissance. Bronzoni is one of the emblematic artists of this period. Thus, he is a relevant representation of this specific universe that has been taking over many fields. The ornaments, the shapes are on the same aesthetic universe in both creations. For sure, Dilara revisited those traditional dresses, full of coyness. She added her rebel and her intrepid vision in those creations. Those dresses are suggestions of the Neo-renaissance. The champion in this type of fashion conception is of course, Alessandro Michele, creative director at Gucci. Both are exploring renaissance to propose their own modern versions. The latter are not exactly the same. As Dilara has a vast repertoire of references, this modern version is also gothic, romantic and religious. In this same collection, we can see references to hieroglyph and even to « Golden Years ». All those inspirations are revisited to fit with the designer’s vision. I feel like this label is a good example of reworking style and shapes through centuries. She opens the window of ages to travel through the time and create a fashion based on History. In a way, Dilara is dealing with fashion anthropology. Her creations are a media of history and heritage presented in various cultures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

George Keburia: A Georgian fashion representative

George Keburia: A Georgian fashion representative

Tbilisi has an emerging fashion scene that deserves to be carefully followed. George is one of those talented emerging Georgian designers ?️ Those last years have been highly lively in the fashion industry. Many unique designers are appearing from various cultures. London, Paris, Milan, and […]

Fashion & Music – Ashley Williams x Bonnie Banane

Fashion & Music – Ashley Williams x Bonnie Banane

  This Mix & Match has been made in an ambivalent athmosphere. I am at the same time happy and sad. Happy because I just came back from one week in Edinburg, London and Oxford, visiting museums and castles with my lovely family. As all […]

Fashion & Art – Liam Johnson x Felice Varini

Fashion & Art – Liam Johnson x Felice Varini

Liam Johnson is the designer that has opened Central Saint Martins FW18 Fashion Show. Hence, we’ve talked a lot about it during LFW. But besides this pleasant position, his creations is what makes him particularly interesting. Growing in the south of Wales, he was born in a middle class family. His parents were working in a garnement factory. Therefore, he has been familiar with the fabric industry in his early days. In an interview for I-D, the designers said that « You’d see the fabrics, and how clothes were put together, and I thought this could be something. You could go onto bigger things with this. » Since the beginning, he has seen the potential in the fashion industry. After studying fashion and art, he made some internships, such as at Maison Margiela with John Galliano, that influenced a lot his vision of fashion. In this same interview, he admitted  « The experience that I had at Margiela has completely impacted me as a person, in the way that I approach, look at and digest fashion design. I was really lucky to be there. » His looks presented for the last CSM fashion show was more than surprising. To me, his creations are way beyond fashion. As Maison Margiela or Comme des Garçons, Johnson is making art with outlines. This specific creation process allows to use the body as an artistic medium. Of course, all of the outfits shown during the presentation are not wearable on a daily basis. However, during the fashion show you don’t even think about it. This is above ready-to-wear, it goes straight to the contemplation. His creations have the power to tickle your curiosity. When I’ve seen this presentation, I’ve instantly wondered how he has done made it this structured, by what he has been inspired… As many bold designers, Liam Johnson is not deeply convinced today’s fashion industry is ready for him. He said  – in the interview on I-D – » I don’t feel like the industry is accommodating for me. It just seems like a beast I cannot even begin to battle with. » If I have the opportunity to answer to that, I will tell him to keep holding on. According to me, his vision has totally its place in the industry. His freaky looks may talk to a niche, but he may have a future in a well know designer house without denying all his creativity and his craziness. 

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Felice Varini is born in Locarno in the Italian part of Switzerland. He is a painter, plasticien and photographer. He goes beyond the frame by using the entire space as his work surface. Varini is using architectural space to play with perspectives. Houses, warehouses, streets and even the entire city can be a potential support of his art expression. To chose a site, Felice Varini is proceeding to a meticulous study. This spotting process allows him to project his creations into the spot. The viewing spot is truly examined to be perfectly at eye level. According to the position of the viewer, the form can be different. However, the artist works on a central form that has to be seen by the spectator. With all the data from the sites, Varini is going to work with simple geometric forms: line, square, triangle, rectangle… After that, this draws are printed on transparent film. His creations are evolving with the space. The viewing point choose to create this specific form is the arrival point of the reading sense of his work and the space. Felice uses, as well, trajectory in his art. This specific way of creating is really appreciated in the art industry. Indeed, he has been part of huge artistic projects taking place in spectacular spaces such as L’Orangerie du Château de Versailles. 

 

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What do they have in common?  Liam Johnson might have been inspired by other artists, designers or decors, however, his work match efficiently with Felice Varini’s art. Both have overcome the limits in their respective industries. Liam Johnson’s looks are taking the entire space on the catwalk. In the meantime, he is making art with fabrics and silhouettes. Varini is using the entire space to create an unique work thanks to geometric forms. The latter are really present in Johnson’s outlines as well. This sense of refinement and boldness is what they have in common.

 

 

Supriya Lele – A Fashion label inspired by Heritage

Supriya Lele – A Fashion label inspired by Heritage

Using your heritage as a main inspiration allows a unique creation process, here is a relevant example…  ?️ As you know, this blog is first of all a way to talk about fashion evolution and future. Those elements can take various forms. Sustainability, fair-trade, humanity are […]