Auteur : Koura-Rosy

Chapter One : Scotland

Chapter One : Scotland

I’ve been waiting many months for this road trip with my family. My sister doesn’t live in France, thus it was a perfect occasion to meet abroad. We chose Britain. Why though ? Well, first, in the family, we have a serious penchant for this […]

Fashion & Music – Joseph x Juliette Gréco

Fashion & Music – Joseph x Juliette Gréco

This Mix & Match has a specific goal. Indeed, this time, I wanted to revisit cultural clichés linked with French culture. Of course, I’m a big fan of old french variety songs. However, the main goal of this association is to destructure the symbolic capital owned […]

Fashion & Art – Dilara Findikoglu x Bronzino

Fashion & Art – Dilara Findikoglu x Bronzino

Dilara Findikoglu as an original name which reflected quite well the unique identity of this fashion designer. Born in Istanbul in a family with traditional turkish values, boldness and rebellion have always been a part of her personality. What I really like in Dilara’s collection, is the fact that she creates based on her heterogeneous inspirations. Some of the fashion critic might say that church is at the center of her creations process, however this is true, it can’t sum up relevantly her vision. Renaissance, romanticism and gothic are part of her fashion conception. More she presents new collection, more we are able to see the important extent of her references. While she was studying at Central Saint Martins, she participated – with some of the emerging designers from the same school – to a guerrilla fashion presentation. Since then, she is been associated with this rebellious image. Her latest collections can confirm this specific feature, expressed by various ways. Dilara is working often on mystical elements. Thus this collection (AW18) is a project that aimed to redefine and create a new female utopia that including all type of women. When talking about this collection, she said that “I used to think that my ideal woman is a powerful boss woman. But as I grow up I’ve changed my mind a little bit; I realized that in order to be united, we all need to be accepted. There’s no elimination” . Those new creations came from various artistic or cultural inspirations. However, I decided to focus on 3 looks that might have been inspired by the same esthetic, and then revisited. 

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Angelo di Cosimo known as Bronzino is a renowned Italian painter from the XVIth century. He lived most of his life in Florence. Thus, he has been inspired by artists such as Pontormo. Bronzini is considered as an artist from mannerism movement (1520 – 1580). Living in the Italy during the renaissance, he worked for the Medicis and painted many famous portrait. In this Mix & Match three of his portrait are presented, one of Maria, daughter of Cosimo I de Medici, one of Eléonore de Tolède and then one of Bia de Medici. As many portraits, those ones are supposed to capture the instant. Through the study of portraits, we can meet the beauties criterias of this period. Femininity was a synonym of modesty, ornament and elegance. Bronzino’s portrait reflect the standards from another century. He is a emblematic figure of this century debate on the superiority of  sculpture on painting. As a fierce partisan of painting, he created a lot of work for demonstrating the superiority of painting. Therefore he is the creator of a painting based on two faces represented a man full face and from behind to prove that painting is more capable to show the volume.

 

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What they have in common? Of course, I’m a real fan of portrait. I admire the various technics of this type of painting. To me, portrait is the art of soul. However, besides my taste for it, I think those portrait reflect well the 3 looks selected for this Mix & Match. Here again, Dilara might be inspired by different master-pieces, nevertheless, her dresses and their accessories are highly influenced by Renaissance. Bronzoni is one of the emblematic artists of this period. Thus, he is a relevant representation of this specific universe that has been taking over many fields. The ornaments, the shapes are on the same aesthetic universe in both creations. For sure, Dilara revisited those traditional dresses, full of coyness. She added her rebel and her intrepid vision in those creations. Those dresses are suggestions of the Neo-renaissance. The champion in this type of fashion conception is of course, Alessandro Michele, creative director at Gucci. Both are exploring renaissance to propose their own modern versions. The latter are not exactly the same. As Dilara has a vast repertoire of references, this modern version is also gothic, romantic and religious. In this same collection, we can see references to hieroglyph and even to « Golden Years ». All those inspirations are revisited to fit with the designer’s vision. I feel like this label is a good example of reworking style and shapes through centuries. She opens the window of ages to travel through the time and create a fashion based on History. In a way, Dilara is dealing with fashion anthropology. Her creations are a media of history and heritage presented in various cultures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

George Keburia: A Georgian fashion representative

George Keburia: A Georgian fashion representative

Tbilisi has an emerging fashion scene that deserves to be carefully followed. George is one of those talented emerging Georgian designers ?️ Those last years have been highly lively in the fashion industry. Many unique designers are appearing from various cultures. London, Paris, Milan, and […]

Fashion & Music – Ashley Williams x Bonnie Banane

Fashion & Music – Ashley Williams x Bonnie Banane

  This Mix & Match has been made in an ambivalent athmosphere. I am at the same time happy and sad. Happy because I just came back from one week in Edinburg, London and Oxford, visiting museums and castles with my lovely family. As all […]

Fashion & Art – Liam Johnson x Felice Varini

Fashion & Art – Liam Johnson x Felice Varini

Liam Johnson is the designer that has opened Central Saint Martins FW18 Fashion Show. Hence, we’ve talked a lot about it during LFW. But besides this pleasant position, his creations is what makes him particularly interesting. Growing in the south of Wales, he was born in a middle class family. His parents were working in a garnement factory. Therefore, he has been familiar with the fabric industry in his early days. In an interview for I-D, the designers said that « You’d see the fabrics, and how clothes were put together, and I thought this could be something. You could go onto bigger things with this. » Since the beginning, he has seen the potential in the fashion industry. After studying fashion and art, he made some internships, such as at Maison Margiela with John Galliano, that influenced a lot his vision of fashion. In this same interview, he admitted  « The experience that I had at Margiela has completely impacted me as a person, in the way that I approach, look at and digest fashion design. I was really lucky to be there. » His looks presented for the last CSM fashion show was more than surprising. To me, his creations are way beyond fashion. As Maison Margiela or Comme des Garçons, Johnson is making art with outlines. This specific creation process allows to use the body as an artistic medium. Of course, all of the outfits shown during the presentation are not wearable on a daily basis. However, during the fashion show you don’t even think about it. This is above ready-to-wear, it goes straight to the contemplation. His creations have the power to tickle your curiosity. When I’ve seen this presentation, I’ve instantly wondered how he has done made it this structured, by what he has been inspired… As many bold designers, Liam Johnson is not deeply convinced today’s fashion industry is ready for him. He said  – in the interview on I-D – » I don’t feel like the industry is accommodating for me. It just seems like a beast I cannot even begin to battle with. » If I have the opportunity to answer to that, I will tell him to keep holding on. According to me, his vision has totally its place in the industry. His freaky looks may talk to a niche, but he may have a future in a well know designer house without denying all his creativity and his craziness. 

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Felice Varini is born in Locarno in the Italian part of Switzerland. He is a painter, plasticien and photographer. He goes beyond the frame by using the entire space as his work surface. Varini is using architectural space to play with perspectives. Houses, warehouses, streets and even the entire city can be a potential support of his art expression. To chose a site, Felice Varini is proceeding to a meticulous study. This spotting process allows him to project his creations into the spot. The viewing spot is truly examined to be perfectly at eye level. According to the position of the viewer, the form can be different. However, the artist works on a central form that has to be seen by the spectator. With all the data from the sites, Varini is going to work with simple geometric forms: line, square, triangle, rectangle… After that, this draws are printed on transparent film. His creations are evolving with the space. The viewing point choose to create this specific form is the arrival point of the reading sense of his work and the space. Felice uses, as well, trajectory in his art. This specific way of creating is really appreciated in the art industry. Indeed, he has been part of huge artistic projects taking place in spectacular spaces such as L’Orangerie du Château de Versailles. 

 

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What do they have in common?  Liam Johnson might have been inspired by other artists, designers or decors, however, his work match efficiently with Felice Varini’s art. Both have overcome the limits in their respective industries. Liam Johnson’s looks are taking the entire space on the catwalk. In the meantime, he is making art with fabrics and silhouettes. Varini is using the entire space to create an unique work thanks to geometric forms. The latter are really present in Johnson’s outlines as well. This sense of refinement and boldness is what they have in common.

 

 

Supriya Lele – A Fashion label inspired by Heritage

Supriya Lele – A Fashion label inspired by Heritage

Using your heritage as a main inspiration allows a unique creation process, here is a relevant example…  ?️ As you know, this blog is first of all a way to talk about fashion evolution and future. Those elements can take various forms. Sustainability, fair-trade, humanity are […]

Fashion & Music – Edun x Songhoy Blues

Fashion & Music – Edun x Songhoy Blues

Here is a Mix & Match I have deeply appreciated making. First because I highly love this brand and its philosophy. Secondly because this song reminds me a great moment.As you may know, I’m really interested in Africa. I think this continent could be the […]

Fashion & Music – Mother Of Pearl x Siouxsie And The Banshees

Fashion & Music – Mother Of Pearl x Siouxsie And The Banshees

For this Mix & Match, I have been inspired by the Sophia Coppola’s movie: Marie-AntoinetteI think I have been deeply moved by this movie, mainly because of my interest for French and British Royalty – I know, this movie is not totally faithful in terms of historical facts, however, I find it very interesting because of the uncommon vision Coppola had shared with us. My hidden passion for history is focused on the 16th and 19th century and this is not truly because of the fashion sphere.Indeed, what I find interesting is the norms, values and functioning of this society at this time. When you start studying royalty, you realize how customs, norms and values are powerful. You just have to analyze the image of Kings and Queens and the symbolism gravitate all around them.

In her movie, Sophia Coppola introduces us her vision of the last Queen, Marie -Antoinette. She had a tragic destiny, not really because she was a bad Queen, but more because the entire system was falling apart. Monarchy was not « sexy » anymore. The idea of equality and fair society was appearing slowly but certainly. Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a famous French writer from  « Les Lumières » philosophy movement, was a main actor of this emerging ideology. Coppola managed to highlight this unpleasant combination of factors that explain quite well the collapse of this kingdom. Despite this tragic ending, the movie has many dynamic, glorious and happy moments. It is at the same time an anthem to idleness and to bitterness. This Mix & Match focused on a « punchy » song comes from the masked ball scene.

 

Here I’m mixing:

  • Mother Of Pearl – AW 18: This new collection is totally faithful to Amy Powney’s fashion conception. There are loads of patterns, fluidity, loose shapes and elegance in this new creations. Besides this distinguished vision, this fashion label is trying to produce sustainable outfits. Indeed, before London Fashion Week, Amy was in Peru for this new project. As this information hasn’t been confirmed yet, it is hard to find more insights – I saw it on her Instagram account. This upcoming project makes me love more and more this womenswear brand that celebrates properly femininity with a hint of daring and impudence.

 

  • Siouxsie And The Banshees – Hong Kong Garden: As I said before, this music comes from a well-known scene of Marie-Antoinette : The Masked Ball. This song fits perfectly with this scene marked by euphoria. This party is aimed to treat the Queen’s boredom, and it does. Marie-Antoine arrives in a black dress, elegant and bold at the same time. With a fine and transparent blindfold, this look gives her a sensual and irresistible aura. While Hong Kong Garden is playing, people dancing, drinking and laughing… It is just an efficient representation of happiness, innocence and joy that makes you smile in front of you screen.

 

The Mix: To me, this new collection can be easily transposed in Coppala’s movie. Mother Of Pearl’s outlines are tickled our audacity and our souls of mischief to live a playful moment. As Marie-Antoinette movie, this fashion show celebrating boldness and elegance. This new collection  may not be for a masked ball, however the catwalk could have taken place in this kind of majestic space.

 

Fashion & Art – Anna October x Bruno Munari

Fashion & Art – Anna October x Bruno Munari

Anna October is a fashion label and designer born in Ukraine. In 2012, Anna created her brand after being graduated from Zaporozie and studying fine arts at Odessa. What is nice with Anna’s collections is the fact that she re-designs femininity by taking inspiration from […]