When I started Platform, I wanted to express my fashion vision and show things beyond simple trends and clothes. This multi-disciplinary approach is a way to present fashion as a part of a bigger project. At the beginning, I didn’t expect any results. I was doing this because I had something to say. It still is the case today. Except that now, I’m trying to go further in my analysis and also in my content. I think many people feel concerned by this other conception consisting of gathering emerging and alternative fashion together. Some of us are really into fashion but can’t project ourselves in it because of the exclusive image often advocated by main fashion brands like Chanel, Saint Laurent or Givenchy. We can be easily fed up by those types of imaginary and ideal. Because of this main reason, Platform took its sense to me. Without all the support on Instagram, I wouldn’t have been able to do this first Fashion Week. It’s because we feel that it’s time to move on to another vision/philosophy concerning fashion that I’ve been able to live this experience in London. To be honest, I was quite anxious to do it for the first time and plus to be alone. But actually, I think it was the best way to do it, on my own. I’ve met many interesting people because my aura was invited to the conversation. I was always smiling because I was excited like a child. Many people noticed me because I was almost the only one smiling. Indeed, in fashion people are often showing boring facial expressions, even in London. But now, I decided to be true to myself and to not deny my natural personality. From the beginning until the end of this experience, I really felt accomplished and happy to do what I love the most. The peak had been when I had the chance to do my Mix & Match project with Courtney Mitchell’s collection. I prepared this video since April, and it was not easy to find all the collaborators. At the end of this journey, all my expectations and even more have been met.
Why the London Fashion Week?
In the interest of consistency, I chose to do my request for the London Fashion Week. This is the major event for emerging talents and alternative fashion. London is where fashion can be dealt with incongruity, boldness and creative aesthetic. There are no limits in this field. Everyone who has a message can find an audience. I had an interesting conversation on it, and we agreed that London can have this type of Fashion Week because this event is not only about business. It’s not the place where money rules everything. Of course it has a impact but it’s faint compare the one in NYC or in Paris. Milan is of course ruled by money but in the common sense, this is the fashion week of luxury fabrics work and splendid aesthetic. Thus, London Fashion Week appeared as an evidence. Besides, I follow and publish many British designers. I started doing my request really early to make sure that I would not have the usual « too late » messages. Also, thanks to Patrick McDowell, I had the opportunity to do the British Fashion Council Showroom. It was the perfect chance to hunt for emerging designers. I met many lovely and interesting people including Paola Russo. I could probably have a nice experience in the other cities, and hopefully I’ll be able to have this opportunity. Nevertheless, LFW was the right place to start my networking in order to make Platform grow. I left the UK with many ideas and upcoming projects.
How do I feel after this first experience?
I didn’t expect to do more than 10 fashion shows and presentations. I think for a first experience it is quite well and I’m actually really satisfied. After the first experience, I’m happy to see that I may have found my place in this wild and big industry. Indeed, by meeting people I realized that I can do interesting projects with them. I though it would be harder to approach them because of my lack of self-confidence. Of course, the first day was not so easy, however, the more I was going though this experience the more I realized that fashion is no so frightening. On the creative aspect, I deeply enjoyed the design proposed by the various designers I’ve seen for the SS19 collection. Sometimes it was really colorful, other times it was all about simplicity scenography and ambiance. But what I loved is the fact that every collection has its own meaning and inspirations. Through those presentations we could easily experience the storytelling. From bikers to dance and theater, the offer was boundless. This fashion week has feeding my own inspirations and opened my spirit. Before leaving, in the morning, I’ve met Kahn a wonderful knitwear designer and we’ve had one of those thoughtful and interesting conversation. Here again, this experience makes me realize many things about my personality – why creating Platform? Why Fashion? We finally concluded that every motivations you have in life came from your childhood. It’s all about the socialization process, how you’ve been raised and how you experienced elementary school and college. Coming back to my life, full of questioning, has not been easy. But at least, this experience gave me a useful present. Now I know what I want to do. I just don’t know how to get there. I assume I’ll figure it out, hopefully shortly.
Which collections left their mark on?
Mother of Pearl
The presentation was in a fancy hotel named Café Royal in the center of London near Soho and Oxford Circus. This season was really important because the brand turned officially sustainable and ethical. I asked Amy Powney herself because she was among the crowd for this SS19 presentation. There were also Aweng Chuol, one of the most characteristic model these days. It was one of my favorite show because of course, the creations were really inspiring, but also the ambiance and the meetings were truly interesting and enriching. Powney stayed true to herself and gave us a decadent and elegant version of sustainable fashion. Silk, floral pattern and smooth shapes, we felt her signature everywhere. The scenography for this presentation was unique. It was taking place in a classy decor peppered of domestic furniture. A washing machine, a tv broadcasting Annie Hall and wonderful carpets, the scenery was warming and splendid at the same time. A little touch of retro was tangible.
This show was really dynamic. A Dj was playing music during the entire presentation and models were walking though a catwalk made of mirror. It was a mischief game with the reflection. The creations were made to evoke the essence of comfortable. This SS19 collection plays with the contrast between volume and fitted silhouettes. Through this exploration of extremes, Knorr reveals obscured shapes, together with figure-hugging silhouettes. Fabrics include soft viscose crepe, light stretched cotton and shiny metallic lamé. The color palette combines soft pastel and crème tones with warm pink, oranges and steel blue. Knorr uses also multicolored Swarovski crystal on draped shift dresses. The crystals creating an illusion of movement by trancing and accentuating the natural body lines.
This collection foundation is a quote from Claude Cahun – a french artist born in Nantes. « Sous ce masque un autre masque. Je n’en finirai pas de soulever tous ces visages » which means « Under this mask, another mask. I will never finish lifting up all these faces« . This show was a real delight. It was a mix of theater and dance, a real artistic performance. Edeline Lee investigating the feminine state through design and performance. Inspired by the lives contemporary women leads and the multiple roles that they play in their lives, Edeline Lee has curated a performance piece juxtaposing the woman’s vulnerable, internal person versus worldly, exterior facade. The outfit itself is quite simple but staging was everything. The performance was cut in different act. From the classic fashion moments : red carpet, runaway show, photographers, afterparty, an all story about women duality were presented. The choreography includes tributes to the work of Pina Bausch and Trajal Harrell.
What stricken me the most in this presentation is the groovy and excellent playlist. I stayed almost 2 hours to make the most out of it. You know this feeling when you don’t want to miss anything because it is too good. This SS19 presentation was like this. Sadie Williams investigates an original and surprising worlds. I could spot notable points of reference include everything from old school Americana bikers, Japanese Bosozuko gangs, motor cross riders and the familiar jackets worn by her own parents during authentic punk London. The Dr Martens moccasin were also customized with chains, safety pins and razor blades. Sadie’s much loved shimmering prints are exaggerated to their full potential, sweeping in seams across garments or paneled into richly bonded, labor intensive jackets. Vivid, graphic prints appear on unique editioned scarves, heightening the sense of the individual.
This performance and collection was marked by a playful and colorful designs. Minki SS19 collection takes inspiration from Lorenzo Vitturi book named « Money Must Be Made« . He re-imagines Vitturi’s journey through the Nigerian Balogun Market in Lagos Island. The set was really interesting, it reminded me of Marni Playland. This market is know for being eclectic, by selling absurd amount of variegated goods with a constant flow of people, voices, styles and gestures. The ‘randomness’ creates an exciting and edgy visual. Minki places this collection in a relatable context of an ideal and desirable world presented in an exaggerated, fanciful and dreamy way. The collection is build up around contrasting fabric such as amble cottons, seersuckers, canvases, plastics and silk twills. Also, we can notice a clash between different outlines such as bold prints, patches, colored, crushed leaves and stripes. The color palette interprets the energy of this imaginative land and re-adapts the market concept created by Vitturi, creating new volumetrically disorientating images.